Day One:
We arrived in Pärnu after a bus ride from Tallinn, dreaming of a white Christmas in Estonia. Like many, we had long been enchanted by the idea of snowy festivities, inspired by childhood films and TV. However, as we traveled further south, the snow-covered landscapes began to thaw, leaving us with rain instead of the winter wonderland we had imagined.
Reaching Pärnu around 2 PM on Christmas Eve, we were dropped off at a quiet bus stop seemingly in the middle of nowhere, we had actually had a bit of an issue on this bus ride as we had no designated seats (as we were unable to select them) but were asked to move by a passenger who had booked the seat we had chosen to sit on. We were confused as we didn't know if we had to book seats or not but wasn't given the option to either way! Thankfully that was the last time we were moved and we found a seat at the back which hadn't been pre-booked!
Upon arriving in this random bus stop we were surprised to find a Rimi supermarket nearby which was still open despite Estonia celebrating Christmas on the 24th! We used this as an opportunity to stock up on provisions to create a traditional Estonian Christmas dinner before taking a short Bolt ride to a fishing village where our log cabin awaited.
The cabin was everything we’d hoped for and more—rustic and charming, exuding that quintessential Christmas vibe even without the snow. Inside, we were welcomed by the warm air from the pre-set heater, which instantly made us feel at home.
After unpacking, we realised we had forgotten our teabags back in Tallinn. Being Brits, this was a crisis! So, we braved the 30-minute journey back to the shop, this time opting for a taxi. On our return, we met the cabin owner and his son, who were incredibly friendly and spoke excellent English. Despite Estonia’s reputation for reserved conversations, they were engaging and even shared some of their own Christmas dinner with us.
Their table offered a true taste of Estonian tradition: verivorst (blood sausage), sauerkraut, roast pork, potatoes, homemade cranberry sauce with foraged cranberries, and a delightful biscuit-based dessert. Their kindness made the day feel extra special.
They also offered us a chance to rent a unique sauna on a boat for €75, but after exploring Tallinn and Helsinki (both pricey cities), our budget was tight. Instead, we booked a hot tub for €50 the following day, which felt like the perfect indulgence.
That evening, we settled into the cabin, enjoying the food we’d picked up earlier, and watched the remake of Salem’s Lot, not a common choice for a new years film, but we had wactched the first Home Alone earlier on whilst settling in so wanted to watch something a little different knowing we would be binge watching christmas films the next day! Despite this we didn't finish the film as we were worn out from traveling so much as at this point we had been on planes, ferries and busses to get around our destinations. The cozy atmosphere of the secluded cabin, paired with the warmth inside, made it a memorable and relaxing start to our Christmas retreat in Pärnu, but made us fall asleep a lot earlier than we intended!
Day Two:
We woke up on Christmas Day to a brisk morning—Bob had accidentally left the aircon on the cold setting overnight! Quickly switching it back to warm, Tammy prepared a plate of traditional Estonian Christmas morning snacks, including gingerbread, nuts, fruit, and oaty biscuits, and set up Home Alone 2 to play. While Tammy got into the festive spirit, Bob fell back asleep after the exhaustion of the previous day’s travel and not being able to settle as he was exicited for the next day like the big kid he is!
Once awake, Bob started filming the Christmas special vlog for the channel—our very first Christmas vlog! After exploring the area around the cabin, he returned to enjoy the snacks Tammy had prepared earlier and gave a detailed tour of the cabin while Tammy set up The Santa Clause movie. Once filming wrapped, Bob edited the first few parts of the vlog before settling down with Tammy to enjoy the movie and its sequel.
Later in the day, the cabin owner's father arrived to prepare the hot tub while the owner headed to Tallinn to continue his family Christmas tradition. Meanwhile, we called our families and started preparing our Christmas dinner. During breaks, we watched A Street Cat Named Bob and its sequel, A Christmas Gift from Bob. Dinner was a success, and we even filmed our reactions for the vlog, which Bob promptly edited into the next section.
At 7 p.m. sharp, the hot tub was ready—a punctuality we appreciated and expected from Estonians as we had noticed that they are very good at time keeping, very impressive as its not as common for us in the UK to be spot on time for everything!
The one thing different from a usual hot tub experience is that the tub’s water, which was sourced from sulphur-rich soil, had a distinctive smell. Thankfully we had already got used to it as the mains were plumbed seperate from the city, so even the drinking water in the cabin was sulphury smelling, but safe to drink thankfully!
Soaking in the warm water, we enjoyed Estonian beer and cider while listening to spooky horror story podcasts and gazing out at the dark forest—a festive yet eerie atmosphere that was both unique and memorable.
Once the vlog was complete, we uploaded it at 11 p.m. local time, just in time for England’s 8 p.m. Christmas TV slot, releasing it an hour before the highly anticipated Gavin and Stacey Christmas special. Our own Christmas special was never going to win out on views against such an iconic show, so we released it a little earlier to at least help get people in the festive sprit and to share our experience with our friends and family back home too!
After a short break, we returned to the hot tub before wrapping up the evening with the rest of Salem’s Lot, which we had fallen asleep to the night before.
We planned to sleep upstairs but decided against it after spotting silverfish in the sheets—a common occurrence in the moist, forested area. Instead, we made ourselves comfortable downstairs.
Though it was an unconventional Christmas, it was cozy, unique, and truly unforgettable!
Day Three:
On our last day in Pärnu, we prepared to head back to Tallinn for our 9:50 p.m. flight to the UK. We started the morning by finishing up the remaining supplies we had brought from Rimi and Tallinn, enjoying a simple breakfast of bread, cheese, ham, butter, and some leftover cold meats from Christmas Day.
After tidying up the cabin, we booked a Bolt for the ride to Pärnu bus station. Our driver spoke flawless English, having moved to America as a child and later returned to Estonia 11 years ago with her English husband, settling in Pärnu. She was kind and engaging, and she appreciated our attempts at learning Estonian—a nice moment of cultural exchange.
At the bus station, we said our goodbyes to the driver and waited for our bus in the modern, clean, and well-maintained terminal. Once onboard, we were relieved to have no issues with our seats this time, allowing us to settle in and relax for the journey.
As we looked out at the passing landscapes of Pärnu, we reflected on our choice to spend Christmas here. Despite the unexpected lack of snow, Pärnu had been a magical and memorable destination for our first Christmas abroad.
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We are a UK based couple who love to travel the world exploring new places, trying new food, meeting new people, and having new experiences!